How the garden-to-glass philosophy is changing aperitifs

From August 20 to 24, one of the most outstanding ship festivals Sail Amsterdam took place in Amsterdam. This grandiose event was held for the 10th time, this year it was timed to coincide with the 750th anniversary of the Dutch capital.

Last weekend, hundreds of historic sailing ships staged a spectacular procession through the North Sea Canal - all accompanied by orange smoke, ship horns, hymns and fireworks. This incredible spectacle attracted thousands of people to the main quays, and it was almost impossible to push through the crowd of tourists to the front rows to see anything.

My friends and I chose a wiser strategy and booked a table in one of the best view bars in Amsterdam: no crowds, no crush, no risk of accidentally falling into the canal under the pressure of elbows and selfies. There was virtually nothing to stop us from enjoying the parade. The only thing that could distract us from the gorgeous view was the fancy cocktails.

One of them, which was prepared for me by a charming bartender with a mustache like Salvador Dali, was called Adonis.

It was this masterpiece of mixology, to which the local "Salvador" added some unusual herbaceous-floral vermouth, that spurred me to write this article.

We all know martinis and aperol, but what do we know about the history of vermouth? What do we know about aperitifs based on flowers and herbs, and about the most unusual examples, from monastic to the creations of the most fashionable bartenders of our time?

The history of flavored aperitifs goes back to ancient times: back in ancient Greece, Hippocrates prescribed medicinal grape wine with herbs to the sick, where one of the key ingredients was wormwood - a supposed remedy for intestinal parasites. In ancient Rome, herbal preparations continued this tradition.

The monasteries of the Middle Ages were important places for experimenting with herbal infusions. For example, rosolio, which gets its name from the Latin ros solis (which can be translated as "sun dew"), was created by monks from flowers picked in the morning. At one time, its popularity waned, but it made a comeback in 2016 with the introduction of Italicus Rosolio di Bergamotto liqueur.

The turning point was the creation of classic vermouth. Although similar drinks had existed before, such as "wine with wormwood" ripened in German and Italian cities, it was only in Turin in 1786 that Antonio Benedetto Carpano created the first commercial recipe for vermouth. He mixed white wine with wormwood and flavored the whole thing well with alcohol and herbs. Over time, vermouth became an important part of the Italian cultural code, and in the 19th century it entered cocktail culture.

In the last century, vermouth has transformed: dry white French, sweet Italian, golden and even pink versions appeared, used as an aperitif or as ingredients in cocktails like Martini, Negroni, Manhattan, Americano. The Carpano family gave the world Punt e Mes and Antica Formula, legends of bar culture today.

Carpano Antica Formula is one of the most respected sweet vermouths, known for its complex, layered flavor with pronounced vanilla undertones in the aroma. It is said to be best suited for cocktails, but I tried it with ice and a sprig of mint - a divine, relaxing combination and a flavorful treat.

Today's trends keep tradition alive, but focus more on giving drinks a local twist and lean towards being more sustainable. Have you heard about the garden-to-glass trend, for example? Industry leaders are using their own vegetable gardens and patios to grow mint, basil, rosemary, thyme, sage, lavender, calendula and other aromatic plants. They are used fresh, in tinctures, syrups and cocktails. Interestingly, they are used in their entirety, using everything from roots to flowers.

For example, bartender Danny Childs grows wormwood, rhubarb, artichoke, shiso, mint, tarragon in his garden, which he then "transforms" into vermouth, absinthe, amaro - very unusual and deep in flavor creations.

In the world of aperitifs, herbs and flowers work real wonders. Try Genepi, an Alpine herbal liqueur that has experienced a new wave of popularity thanks to the fashion for bitter "health" flavors. It tastes like chartreuse, but it is more affordable and acquires new shades of flavor thanks to American distillers.

Today, Genepi is experiencing a second birth: American and Italian craft distilleries have started producing their own versions. This liqueur is increasingly used in cocktails, for example, bartenders add it to Martini for a more herbal character, use it in variations of Negroni or even as a substitute for chartreuse in the classic Last Word.

Modern aperitifs also include some very curious specimens, such as Cocchi Americano, Cynar with an artichoke flavor, Fernet with a menthol bitter profile, Lillet, Suze, Cappelletti and many others. They are all interesting on their own or in combination with ice, citrus or tonic.

But how to drink these flavorful beverages and what to pair them with? It all depends on herbs, colors and style. For example, rosemary or lavender vermouth will open perfectly with a fine champagne or tonic. French aperitif Suze, created on the basis of gentian root and complemented with bright floral and herbal flavors, is wonderful paired with aged cheeses, olive tapas and smoked fish.

Genepi, with its grassy, alpine profile, demands minimalism: purely over ice or as part of refreshing cocktails with a bitter note of lemon.

Dry vermouths and complex infusions go perfectly with antipasto: prosciutto, artichokes, olives, grissini and pickled vegetables.

Don't forget about non-alcoholic options: herbal syrups diluted with carbonated water, lemonade and flavored with microgreens perfectly support the concept of "from garden to glass" and become an aperitif in themselves. And you can drive afterwards, too.

P.S.: A bartender in Amsterdam did reveal to me the recipe for his signature Adonıs.

If in the classic version this cocktail consists of sherry and sweet vermouth, such as Antica Formula or Cocchi Torino, diluted with a couple of drops of orange bitter, then in the version of Amsterdam Salvador sweet vermouth was infused with fresh basil and thyme. And instead of orange bitters, the bartender added an infusion of rosemary or sage. It is impossible to tell how unusual, tasty and fresh it is.

I drank three!

This article was AI-translated and verified by a human editor