Island renaissance: 10 Cypriot wines to try

September was a busy month for me, with a number of trips, including some to non-obvious wine regions. Among them was a trip to Cyprus, which, like many spontaneous events in our lives, was wonderful.

Perhaps it was my professional deformation, but the first thing I set out to study in Cyprus was the history of the local wine industry. You will be surprised, but archaeological finds in Erimi and Pyrgos reveal traces of wine as early as the 4th millennium BC, which allows us to speak of Cyprus as the oldest center of winemaking in the Eastern Mediterranean. In 2005, a team of Italian archaeologist Maria-Rosalia Belgiorno found grape seeds and ancient vessels dating from 3500-3000 BC used for wine during excavations in Cyprus.

This thin thread of history leads to the dessert wine of Commandaria. It is considered to be the oldest wine in the world still in production and one of the oldest surviving styles.

This amber elixir is produced from the autochthonous Xinisteri and Mavro varieties. The berries are first dried in the sun and then the finished wine is aged for at least two years in oak barrels, which produces a rich spectrum of flavors of honey, dried fruits, nuts and caramel. The name comes from Grande Commanderie, the domain of the Hospitaller Order, whose seat was located in this wine-growing area.

Another amazing fact is that Cyprus remains the only European country to have escaped Phylloxera infestation, so many of the vines here grow on their own roots.

The best mountain vineyards are at altitudes of up to 1500 meters, where cool nights and stony soils help to maintain the balance of acidity and sugar so important for wine production.

The geography and history of Cyprus form a very interesting varietal composition. "Xinisteri" is the most common white variety on the island and one of the two "pillars" of the Commendaria, together with the black "Mavro".

At the turn of the 20th and 21st centuries, Cypriot winemakers brought back from oblivion the autochthonous varieties of Yannoudi and Promara, which are excellent at altitude. More from the significant "Cypriots" are "marateftiko", "morocanella" and "spurtiko", which are excellent in hot and dry climates. This is especially important today, with summers getting hotter and hotter every year.

Today, Cyprus' wine industry is experiencing a renaissance. This is to the credit of a small "new wave" of farms that produce wine in small quantities but with an emphasis on quality, and put the focus on autochthonous rather than popular international grape varieties.

Even Commandaria is getting a second wind: winemakers are experimenting with quality and style, achieving more elegant interpretations of the famous wine.

I was lucky enough to visit two interesting but rather different wineries about half an hour from Limassol.

The owner of Zambartas Winery, Markos Zambartas, studied in Adelaide, Australia, and brought to the island valuable knowledge of modern winemaking and a systematic scientific approach. He welcomed us as best friends, and it was at his place that I first tasted the famous Commandaria, which turned out to be a very good choice in the morning instead of the traditional espresso.

Their Commendaria Melusine is a modern interpretation of an ancient wine with long barrel aging, the same balanced sweetness, with noble aromas of candied orange zest, apricots and caramelized fruits.

I also fell in love with their Single Vineyard not Orange. As you can tell from the humorous name, it's not "orange" at all, but a blend of Xinisteri with Mavro, intended as a subtle, floral and herbaceous answer to tradition. The wine is produced in an edition of less than 700 bottles. That is to say, it is a particularly good find.

Of the reds, their Shiraz-Lefkada blend was disarming: juicy spice with blackberry and smoky notes, aged in French and American oak, and yet lively. A typical "shiraz" in the best sense. We felt that everyone at Zambartas tries to please the guest and make the visit warm and relaxed. Signing up for a tasting is easy and the approach to guests is really as friendly as possible.

At Tsiakkas Winery, the first thing that catches your eye is the modern design of the winery and the mind-blowing mountain views from the spacious terrace where tastings take place. The fresh air is like trying to explain the lightness of local white wines on its own.

The winery is based in Picilia, near the village of Pelendri. The vineyards are all organic and the grapes are harvested by hand, just like at Zambartas.

Tsiakkas has become my benchmark for a good "xinisteri" wine: a high-altitude, mineral version with clean acidity.

Tsiakkas' red wine Vamvakada (Marateftiko) is regularly recognized at the Decanter World Wine Awards and receives high marks from critics. It has recognizable hints of black cherry and white pepper flavors. Their Kommandaria is considered a benchmark of style among private estates and among Cypriot wine connoisseurs.

The summer of 2025 brought a major challenge to Cyprus: in July, the largest fire in history broke out in southern Cyprus, killing people and destroying more than 100 square kilometers of forests and farmland. Dozens of communities in Krasochoria had to be evacuated.

A report by the U.S. Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF) later determined that the fire was caused by a "carelessly thrown cigarette."

For many winemakers, this means not only zero yields in the affected areas, but also reduced potential in 2026 due to overheating and soil damage. It's scary to think that one cigarette caused such damage to an entire island.

But the optimism of Cypriots is striking: instead of bemoaning what has already happened, winemakers are banding together and developing a plan to protect vineyards from future fires. For example, they plan to create safe buffer zones around the vineyards, clearing the edges of the vineyards of flammable plants, reducing the firewood supply, and removing shrubs and branches that could serve as a "bridge" for fire.

What is important now is a long-term post-fire reclamation strategy: restoring soil, microbiota, mulching and repairing irrigation systems to accelerate healthy vine regeneration. This is especially important in areas where roots may have been damaged by heat or where the loss of soil organic layer has increased the vulnerability of the land to erosion and burnout.

If you go to Cyprus, as I did, not for the obvious, you'll not only find sun, olive groves and sea, but also wines that tell their own story as well as the story of an entire island.

I'll leave my favorite wines, which I highly recommend trying if you find yourself in Cyprus.

- Zambartas Single Vineyard not Orange - be careful, after two glasses I felt like I had drunk a whole bottle.

- Zambartas Commandaria Melusine 2012 - long barrel aging and an elegant balance of acidity and sweetness.

- Zambartas Shiraz-Lefkada is an excellent Cypriot shiraz.

- Tsiakkas Xynisteri is an example of high-altitude fresh minerality.

- Tsiakkas Vamvakada (Maratheftiko) - dark berries, black pepper, bright but pleasant tannins.

- Tsiakkas Commandaria 2020 - DWWA 2025 winner, subtle "nutty-citrus" sweetness.

- Kyperounda Petritis Xynisteri is one of the style benchmarks from the high-altitude vineyards.

- Vouni Panayia Promara is a rare autochthonous, stunning and unusual wine, the "second youth" of the island.

- Vlassides Grifos 2 (Xynisteri & Sauvignon Blanc) is already a modern, flavorful interpretation of the autochthon with the addition of the sauvignon blanc variety.

- Ezousa Metharme Maratheftiko is a dense, characterful "maratheftiko" from Kannaviu. This is one of the most interesting red wines of Cyprus that I have tasted. In the glass you'll find a bright ruby color, layered aromas of black cherry, mint and thyme.

This article was AI-translated and verified by a human editor