Land of yellow wine: what to taste in the French region of Jura

As I dove headfirst into the topic of garage winemaking and reminisced about favorite producers as I flipped through my thick tasting notebook, I realized that among them were a great many winemakers from France's Jura region.

Domaine Overnoy is a legendary producer known for its natural approach to winemaking. Guillaume Overnoy works real miracles on his 5.5 hectares of vineyards. Or Domaine Ratte, a biodynamic winery where everyone is convinced that real wine begins with respect for nature.

In general, Jura is an incredibly interesting and very fashionable region. The presence of a bottle or two of yellow or straw wine from this region in a home cellar is in itself an indication that its owner has above-average wine curiosity and taste.

This is a small but surprisingly distinctive region bordering Switzerland. The first mentions of winemaking here date back to Roman times, and in the Middle Ages monks from local monasteries consolidated the tradition of vineyard cultivation. The town of Arbois was particularly famous for its wines, which were appreciated outside France.

In the 19th century, like most European regions, Jura was affected by the phylloxera epidemic. Many vineyards were abandoned and their area was reduced several times over.

By the middle of the 20th century, only a shadow of its former greatness remained, but the unique varieties and winemaking traditions were preserved. It is thanks to this that Jura has experienced a renaissance in recent decades.

Jura's modern popularity began with the interest of sommeliers and wine enthusiasts who were looking for a "different wine" that would be unlike the traditional classics, something atypical and interesting. And they found it right here. Today, vintages of Domaine Overnoy or Château-Chalon are appreciated all over the world, and the wines of the region are on the wine lists of the best restaurants in Paris, London and New York.

The vineyards of Jura cover an area of only about 1,950 hectares.

There are only five main grape varieties grown here: white Chardonnay and Savagnin, red Pulsar, Trusso and Pinault Noir. Each variety is unique in its own way, and their combination makes the palette of the region bright and multifaceted.

"The Chardonnay here is different from Burgundy: it is more mineral, with fresh citrus and nutty notes.

The local highlight is, of course, Savagnin, which is the basis of yellow wines. "Pulsar produces amazingly clear, almost pink red wines with aromas of red currants and rose petals. Trousseau wines are more dense and structured, with cherry and spicy tones, while Pinault Noir is used here more often in blends, although it is sometimes found as a mono variety.

Many farms in the region rely on biodynamics and minimal intervention to ensure that the wines retain the natural character of the terroir in their aromas and flavors. And perhaps nowhere else in France are tradition and modern "natural" practices so seamlessly intertwined.

Jura's best known and most revered styles remain vin jaune and vin de paille.

Vin jaune, or yellow wine, is the region's trademark. It is made exclusively from Savagnin and aged for a minimum of six years and three months in oak barrels without topping up. During this time, the wine loses almost 40% of its volume and a peculiar veil and a layer of wild yeast forms on the surface. It protects the drink from complete oxidation and gives it a characteristic flavor.

The taste of vin jaune is unmistakable: walnuts, hazelnuts, spices, curry, turmeric, dried fruit and a slight brackishness. It is not just a wine, it is a cultural phenomenon that has no analogues to be found anywhere else.

Even its bottle is special: 620 ml (not 750 ml) with a characteristic wide shape at the bottom. Why such a bottle volume? It's the volume that remains after a liter of wine has been aged for a long time.

Each new vintage of vin jaune is celebrated at La Percée du Vin Jaune, when a barrel of aged wine is "tapped" for the first time.

Vin de paille, the "straw" wine, is born quite differently. The grapes are laid out on straw Ma or special grates and left to dry for several months. The berries lose moisture, turn into raisins, and only then they are used to make a thick, sweet wine, which is aged in oak for at least two years. Vin de paille is thick, aromatic, with hints of figs, dates, honey and chocolate. A hundred kilograms of grapes yields only 15 liters of wine, which is why it is so rare and valuable.

But Jura is not limited to these two styles. It also makes Macvin du Jura, a fortified dessert wine in which fresh grape juice is blended with local Marc du Jura brandy. Fermentation is stopped and the drink retains its sweetness while acquiring a rich palette of orange zest, spices and honey.

There is also a sparkling wine called Crémant du Jura. It is fresh, light and bright, and is more often found outside the region, as yellow and "straw" wines remain niche.

The red wines of the region are also noteworthy. "Pulsar yields almost weightless wines with subtle aromas of roses and red berries. Their color is so light that they are often mistaken for rosé.

"Trousseau, on the other hand, is more powerful and spicy, with aging potential. "Pinault Noir is not as famous here as in Burgundy, but in blends it gives structure and depth to the wines.

Since I adhere to the rule "to local wines, local food", I can't leave out the cuisine of Jura here either.

At its center, of course, is cheese - we are in France. The local legendary conte cheese is made exclusively from the milk of Montbéliarde cows.

This cheese has a rich, nutty flavor that reveals itself with years of aging. Young conte is fresh and creamy, while mature conte becomes complex, with notes of caramel, nuts and dried fruits. Once you try this cheese once in Juré, you won't be able to buy an ordinary analog in the supermarket. All in all, yellow wine and conte is one of the most harmonious combinations I have ever tasted.

Jura's gastronomy is not limited to one type of cheese. Soft morbier with its characteristic gray stripe pairs well with light red wines, while blue bleu de Gex cheese is especially good with vin de paille or dessert Macvin. And in the restaurants of the region you should try chicken with morels in a cream sauce based on vin jaune. This dish is a symbol of local cuisine. Also famous in Jurées are the smoked sausages from Morteau, which go best with trousseau, and the local trout served with local chardonnay and savagnin.

The question is not an easy one because the region today boasts a plethora of winemakers whose names are well known to wine lovers around the world.

These include the legendary Domaine Overnoy, the biodynamic Domaine Ratte, the elegant Domaine Berthet-Bondet, the family-run Domaine Cartaux-Bougaud and another winery specializing in biodynamic winemaking, Domaine de la Pinte. Each in its own way reveals the character of Jura.

This article was AI-translated and verified by a human editor