Secrets of Malbec: why this wine knows how to surprise you

I recently had dinner with a friend at our favorite steakhouse, where not only is the meat great, but also the wine selection. I sometimes amuse myself by asking the sommelier to bring me a wine or two to taste and try to guess them blind. That's what happened this time. The owner of the restaurant emphasizes on small producers, mostly from Europe, and the chances of meeting something familiar there are small. And if we take into account that the assortment of wines by the glass changes every week, then in a couple of months you can thoroughly pump up your tasting skills;

That evening I was brought three reds - two of which I recognized as zweigelt and merlot, but the third was not so simple. The aromas of ripe blackberries and raspberries, complemented by very delicate notes of fresh summer forest after rain and Mediterranean herbs, made me think that this could be a pinot noir in a very good version;

I've tasted some decent alternatives to Burgundy from Germany's Baden region lately, such as Spätburgunder (the German name for the pinot noir variety) from Meyer-Näkel, and thought I had a wine from Baden in my glass. But when sommelier François brought the bottle, I was, to put it in literary terms, surprised. It was a Malbec from Château des Moines;

«It's all about the amphorae,» laughed François, transfixed with pride at having succeeded in impressing us;

This is a very atypical wine, aged for 18 months in amphorae. It was completely unlike any Malbec I had tasted before. There was no trace of the usual richness, oiliness, sweet blackcurrant tones or powerful oak. The wine was almost transparent, with a delicate wild pomegranate color and opened with subtle herbaceous and earthy notes. On the palate it was cool, almost ascetic, with lively acidity and weightless, pollen-like tannins. The feeling is that it was a Malbec that decided not to be a Malbec anymore;

This experience reminded me once again how versatile this varietal is. A wine made from it can be recognized by its dark color and intense flavor and at the same time unrecognizable because it varies according to climate, soil, altitude and the winemaker's imagination.

This variety is of French origin, traditionally called côt. It comes from southwestern France. In the Caor region, Malbec is still considered the king of local wines. There it is austere, structured, with a characteristic «smokiness», sometimes with earthiness and prunes. Wines from Caor can be real longeurs, but are far from easy to read at a young age.

Malbec was once used extensively in Bordeaux as part of blends, but was gradually replaced by cabernet sauvignon and merlot, also because of its sensitivity to disease and frost. It was only decades later that it returned to the wine scene, but in a completely different role.

Its renaissance took place in Argentina. Introduced there in the mid-19th century, Malbec proved to be ideal for the high-altitude vineyards of the Mendoza region. Here, in the foothills of the Andes, at an altitude of 900 to 1500 meters above sea level, this variety reveals itself in a new way: it is warm, velvety, with aromas of black cherry, plum, violet and sometimes dark chocolate and spices.

What makes it so special in Argentina? First of all, the sun. 300 days of sunshine a year are ideal conditions for full berry ripening. Secondly, the altitude: cool nights preserve acidity, balancing ripeness. The winds and dry climate protect the vines from disease, allowing for less intervention by the winemaker, while the mineral soils enhance the structure and character of the wine.

The result is powerful yet elegant wines that have won the hearts of connoisseurs around the world. Argentina has even established April 17 as World Malbec Day. 

Despite Argentina's monopoly on popularity, Malbec also shows itself well in other parts of the world. The aforementioned French Caors are classics with character, structured, tannic, earthy wines suitable for aging and serious gastronomy. In Chile, Malbec wines are lighter, with bright fruitiness and soft tannins. In the USA (California, Washington) they are ripe and rich, often with an emphasis on chocolate and prunes. In South Africa you should go for mineral and warm berry malbec, and in Australia - for interesting experiments with cool climate and slate soils, thanks to which malbec becomes spicy and fresh.

In addition, more and more European winemakers are experimenting with this variety in the «new light of the old world,» as Château des Moines has done.

This is one of the most gastronomic and versatile wines. A classic of the genre: grilled steak. Medium rare, a pinch of salt, a little rosemary and a glass of Argentine Malbec with deep fruity flavor. Magic for the evening.

For dessert, I present my personal top of malbecs that are worth trying at least once in your life:

- Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard Malbec (Argentina)

One of the most famous and refined Malbecs of Argentina. Produced from grapes from a plot of land at an altitude of 1450 meters through a process of micro-vinification, i.e. fermentation of the wine in small tanks.

- Bodega Noemia Malbec (Argentina). 

This is a very different style as the wine is produced in cool Patagonia, which gives it freshness, finesse and great texture. One of the most exquisite Malbecs.

- Pulenta Estate Malbec  (Argentina)

This wine is affordable but with character and nobility. It has notes of ripe berry, lavender, a little cocoa, all creating a great balance.

- Viña Cobos Marchiori Vineyard Malbec (Argentina)

This is the project of Paul Hobbs, an American winemaker. A wine with great concentration but incredible elegance.

- Château du Cèdre Cahors GC (France)

Malbec from Caor. Powerful, deep, capable of long aging. A wine for patient and thoughtful evenings.

Sometimes all it takes in life is one glass of wine to remember how much more there is to discover in the world. Malbec is just such a wine: it knows how to surprise, change minds and inspire.

And lastly, a question to ponder. There is an opinion that summer is the time for white wines. What do you think?