The Nordic Experiment: What's interesting about Swedish winemaking

I recently came across a simultaneous online course on the literature of Sweden and a review by journalist and Master of Wine winner Julia Harding of an amazing wine tasting in Sweden in August 2024. Or rather, it was a competition in which 12 pre-selected Swedish wines were blindly compared to 12 European wines. And what do you think? The Swedish wines performed surprisingly well: the first place went to Kullabergs Immelen 2021, and there were four Swedes in the top ten.

I was immediately reminded of the famous Paris tasting of 1976, which turned the perception of California wines upside down. At that time, something that seemed impossible happened: two emerging California producers defeated the famous wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy. This was despite the fact that French wines ruled the world market at the time. This event, dubbed the "Judgment of Paris," made the Napa Valley one of the greatest wine regions in the world.

Of course, Swedish wines are still far from being compared to the legends of Burgundy, but since some time I am not surprised by anything and am ready for any twists and turns.

Although grape culture has historically been alien to Sweden because of the local climate, attempts to grow grapes here were made as early as the 20th century: sometimes in greenhouses or indoors, more often as experimental vines rather than as a commercial crop.

The real turnaround came in the late 1990s. In 1999, in accordance with European Union regulations, Sweden was granted the status of a country that allows commercial winemaking (i.e. growing grapes and producing wine). Vineyards in the country were established mainly by enthusiastic amateurs, and the first large-scale projects began to appear in the early 2000s.

This year, the Swedish authorities took a new big step towards winemakers. In the summer of 2025, they allowed producers to sell alcohol in small batches directly to consumers, rather than through the state-owned Systembolaget network. Before that, it was only possible to offer tastings and serve wines in winery restaurants, for example.

Swedish winemaking is young by world standards. Nevertheless, this is what gives it flexibility: there are no centuries-old canons, which allows local producers to experiment relatively freely.

At first glance, the natural conditions for winemaking in Sweden are extremely harsh. However, several factors support the development of the industry. Firstly, climate change: the southern part of Sweden has become warmer over the last dozen years. Secondly, winemakers are adapting and actively using grape varieties that can withstand the humidity and cold. Thirdly, the very model of wine consumption and perception in Sweden is changing: people have become more open to experimentation, looking for local, ecological products, appreciating small farms with character. Therefore, it is possible that the bag in box format - wine in a box - may soon lose quite a large percentage of customers.

Vineyards are mainly concentrated in the southern part of the country, closer to the Baltic Sea coastline - these are Skåne and Blekinge, as well as the islands of Gotland and Eland.

Skåne is considered the "wine center" of Sweden: the mild maritime climate, warmer summer days and breezes that mitigate temperature fluctuations create relatively favorable conditions for growing grapes. The proximity of the sea reduces the risk of frost and fungal diseases.

The islands of Gotland and Eland are interesting because of their stony and limestone soils, which give the wines minerality and freshness. Because of the unique terroir, it is there that many experimental winemakers can be found.

Vineyards tend to be planted on southern slopes and in places where the sun lingers longer and the air circulates more freely: in this way the bunches ripen faster and are less exposed to moisture.

The most notable variety in Sweden is 'Solaris'. It is disease resistant, ripens earlier and provides lively acidity, which is a key element for Nordic white wine.

Other commonly used varieties are Rondeau (for red or rosé wines) and Regent, as well as hybrid varieties such as Pinault Nova, Cabernet Noir, Sauvignon Gris, Muscaris and Donaurisling.

The wine styles are varied, but with a predominance of whites, sparkling and rosé. The cold climate and high acidity make Solaris an excellent candidate for sparkling wines. Some winemakers are also experimenting with orange wines as well.

When it comes to Swedish winemaking, one of the first names that comes to mind is Kullabergs Vingård from Skåne. It was their wine that took first place in the already mentioned competition in August 2024.

Another name worthy of attention is Åkesson. This winemaker specializes in sparkling wines. Also worth mentioning are Arilds Vingård, Skepparps Vingård, Hällåkra Vingård, Thora Vingård, Flyinge Vingård and Vingården i Klagshamn, which focus on sustainability, sustainable production and innovation.

Most Swedish wines - fresh whites, sparkling wines and light reds - go well with the local gastronomy. White wines often show bright acidity, freshness, and nuances of citrus and stone fruit. They go well with herring, street fish, smoked trout, seafood (various shells, shrimp). Such wines are also suitable for light salads with wild berries, goat cheeses, honey-mustard dressings.

Pinks and light reds are just wonderful complements to salmon both marinated and grilled, chicken, lamb stew.

Sparkling is ideal as an aperitif and goes well with Swedish holiday dishes such as baked fish, sandwiches with lightly salted salmon, caviar.

To back up the theory with practice, I decided to do my own mini-tasting. After ordering several bottles of Swedish wine from the producer's website and preparing Swedish meatballs with lingonberry sauce, I invited my friend from Bordeaux to visit. Her subtlety of wine appreciation, I confess, sometimes surpasses mine.

Of the samples I was able to get my hands on, I would confidently recommend the Kullabergs Immelen (2021 version or close) - it's probably the best proof that Swedish wine can be serious.

You can then continue with wines from the "Solaris" variety. If you can find light reds (from Kullabergs or other farms' Rondo or Pinault Nova varieties), take them for the sake of interest: they show the character of the region and go well with the aforementioned meatballs.

And so, my friend, as she tasted each sample, said she felt "northern breath" - "the highest acidity, purity of expression and a character that felt like it was breaking through the harsh northern climate."

I can't think of a better way to put it. After all, as many people believe, for a wine to be good, the vine must suffer.

This article was AI-translated and verified by a human editor