Wine at altitude: how airlines are investing in Carte Des Vins

At an altitude of 11,000 meters, the taste of wine changes, and with it the wine list itself. Today, airlines spend billions of dollars to make a glass of Champagne or Château Margaux in first class taste as good as in a Michelin restaurant. Tatiana Zhemaitis wrote about who and how selects wines for high flight 

A few years ago I was flying to Paris. It was the wonderful pre-war days of direct and fast flights, it was my birthday and I was flying first class. The morning was magical: January frost and bright midday sun, anticipation of the holiday weekend and lunch with a view of the Eiffel Tower. Everything seemed so perfect that I couldn't stop smiling. "What would you like for an aperitif?" - the flight attendant sang melodiously with a charming French accent. - "I can offer you a glass of Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle champagne." "Grand Siècle" in French means "Great Century".  The idea of its creation is based on the fact that one can wait a long time for the perfect year to produce wine, but the art of assemblage, i.e. blending, can make it possible to recreate it. Therefore, the Grand Siècle blend is always three exceptional, rare vintages with a unique character.  The Grand Siècle is a blend of three exceptional, rare vintages with a unique character;

I must admit that it was my first first class flight, and I imagined that the wines served on board were not simple, but I could not expect that the legendary "Grand Siècle" could theoretically be poured on the airplane.

I was immediately interested in understanding the history of wine onboard aesthetics and it turns out that things are not as simple as they seem with wine selection in airlines;

Ever since passenger air travel became a mass phenomenon, airlines have sought not only to provide safety and comfort, but also to create a sense of luxury and pleasure in the journey. Serving wine on board began as early as the mid-20th century, when the first commercial flights became available to the wealthy public. And although the choice then was very limited - usually it was one or two table wines - already in the 1970s the leading airlines began to include famous European brands in their menus. The advent of business and first class brought with it the desire to create a full gastronomic experience comparable to the best restaurants on earth. Thus began the era of true "high" wine culture at multi-kilometer altitudes.

The modern selection of wines on board depends directly on the class of service and the status of the airline. In economy class, you can count on one or two basic offerings. These are often inexpensive white and red wines from major wine-producing regions like Languedoc, Southern Italy or Chile. But the higher the class, the more creative and ambitious the wine list becomes.

On Singapore Airlines, for example, First Class passengers can expect wines such as Château Cos d'Estournel 2005 (the second grand cru from Saint-Estèphe), as well as prestigious Champagne brands - Pol Roger and Krug. 

Emirates has amassed and continues to amass one of the largest wine collections among air carriers: according to various estimates, the airline has about 6 million bottles in its warehouses. They are purchased long before they are served and aged in underground cellars in Burgundy and Bordeaux. The wines that Emirates offers first class passengers include the legendary Château Lafite Rothschild and Château Margaux, a level that matches Michelin restaurants, well, and first class ticket prices.

Qatar Airways serves Krug Grande Cuvée 172ème Édition and Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé 2007 in First Class, both of which recently won gold medals at the Cellars in the Sky competition;

When it comes to wine, the French are the ones who simply cannot afford to fall foul of the law, and at Air France, wine is part of the national identity. On board, you can regularly find both recognized classics like Puligny-Montrachet or Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, as well as interesting finds from small farms, selected with an emphasis on style and relevance. The French are very proud of the fact that even in economy class passengers can enjoy good AOC wine and real champagne.

Emirates is a champion of wine list investment: From 2006 to 2023, the airline has invested more than $1 billion in its wine program, amassing collections of premium wines that are aged for years or even decades before coming on board . This allows them to offer exclusive items that are sometimes unavailable even in very expensive "terrestrial" wine shops.

Qatar Airways is not lagging behind and relies on the perfect pairing of wine and food. First Class is served with wines such as Château Montrose (Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux) and Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz, and the wines are always pre-tasted and tested in conditions as close to the flight as possible. Even the signature glasses are specially created to preserve the flavor and temperature of the drink.

ANA (All Nippon Airways) engages master craftsmen from Japan and Europe to develop the wine list. They combine rare wines from France with unique Japanese rieslings and sake to showcase the richness of gastronomic cultures;

The wine list is usually created by a team of sommeliers as well as specially hired consultants. Some airlines hire the most renowned wine experts in the world.

For example, Singapore Airlines works with world-class wine critics including Michael Hilliard (Master of Wine) and Oz Clarke. Their job is not just to select 'good wines', but to select those that will be well received in the thin air and reduced humidity on board. They even conduct regular tastings in a simulated airplane cockpit to see how the wine will perform at altitude.

British Airways has hired Tim Jackson, MW (master of wine) as sommelier in 2022.

Previously, from 1995 to 2010, First Class Concorde's program was overseen by wine journalism legend Jancis Robinson MW, including a selection of Château and exclusive drinks.

Lufthansa uses the Sky Chefs system, which employs an entire team of wine experts to conduct blind tastings in near in-flight conditions. The airline also works with the German Wine Institute to promote German wines, including vibrant Rieslings and Spätburgunders.

The position of Chief Sommelier of Air France May 2024 will be held by Xavier Thuizat, a renowned specialist hailing from Burgundy and winner of the Meilleur Sommelier de France 2022 and Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2023-2024 titles.

If you are ever lucky enough to fly first class, you can count on a real tasting of legends: grands crus, premiers crus, famous appellations (e.g. Saint-Émilion, Puligny-Montrachet)

Business Class serves well-known and reliable French wines and Champagne, while Premium Economy and Economy serve mostly IGPs from the Languedoc and basic white/red wines from France (Champagne Pannier, Devaux, etc.).

On long-haul flights, a free glass of champagne is provided to all passengers, even in economy class;

Wines are, of course, served based on the menu and the season. Drinks are tested under conditions that simulate high-altitude flight. This allows us to select items with bright aromatics, round texture and good balance, which do not lose their expressiveness even at an altitude of 10,000 meters.

So is Qatar Airways. The airline s new Master of Wine, Anna Krebil, specializes in Champagne. She believes that this drink is particularly good in the sky: "At 11,000 meters, our taste sensations are dulled by the cabin pressure and the dryness of the air," explains Krebil. However, in champagnes that have been aged for a long time, such as Krug or Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve with a high reserve wine content, this flavor is particularly pronounced."

Our perception of taste and flavor in flight is radically different from terrestrial conditions. At altitudes above 9,000 meters and lower humidity (often less than 20%), the receptors become less sensitive. This is especially true for nuances: fruity notes, acidity and tannins.

Dry air weakens the nasopharynx, reducing the ability to perceive complex aromas. Pressure and turbine noise also affect perception. This is why even the best wine can seem "flat" and flavorless.

For this reason, when choosing wines to serve on an airplane, preference is given to bright, rounded wines with good structure. Reds with velvety tannins, whites with pronounced fruitiness, as well as champagnes with a dryness level not lower than brut will be perceived best of all.

For this reason, for example, on board, one often chooses not super-dry Chardonnays, but richer and more oily blends from Burgundy or California. And while on the ground you would prefer a mature cabernet, in the sky you may prefer a soft pinot noir or even a structured shiraz.

This article was AI-translated and verified by a human editor